Chemical Peels: A Beginner’s Guide To Face Peels

The term peel is pretty horrific isn’t it? It conjures up images of Nicholas Cage LITERALLY stealing Travolta’s ACTUAL skin in Face Off (that’ll be a nope from us), or Samantha’s red-raw post-peel look in SATC (though, props to her, she rocked it like only Sam could). You might be worried about some sort of extreme reaction, but these days it’s very uncommon.

The biggest misconception is that chemical peels will burn the skin leaving it sore, red and painful. Unless you opt for harsher salon treatments (which these days actually only normally result in a day or two of ‘down time’) this couldn’t be further from the truth. Try forgetting the word ‘peel’ for a minute and instead think of them ‘lifting’ the grime, ‘fizzing away’ dead skin, and ‘plucking up’ congestion. That’s better isn’t it?

Follow our beginner’s guide and put your trust in a peel.

The ultimate do-over’s, they exfoliate deeper than face scrubs while simultaneously getting to the core (literally!) of all your skincare concerns safely and easily at home. They are often even gentler than traditional scrubs which can be very abrasive, particularly if you suffer from sensitivity. With enhanced formulations, this new generations of products are constantly improving, taking away risk of burning and allowing even the more sensitive-skinned to have a go.

Regular exfoliation (ridding your face of the build-up of crappy stuff) is essential for a youthful and radiant appearance, and peels go one step further than a scrub, cleanse or acid-based toner. They maintain healthy skin by boosting cell renewal while also maximising the benefits of your other skincare products. According to Fiona Brackenbury, Education Director for skin care brand Carita, “light chemical peels are often used to treat acne in teenagers, but as a resurfacing treatment to work on the signs of ageing I would recommend that early 20s is a good time to start using a chemical peel”.

Knowing your acids (another scary word right?) is crucial to choosing the correct product for your skin type. Victoria Schofield, Education Executive at Dermalogica explains:

“the difference between AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acids) as opposed to BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acids) is the level of exfoliation. They have different chemical compositions and therefore work differently on your skin. AHAs (lactic or glycol acid) increase cell turnover and renewal rates, stimulating a burst of exfoliation. BHAs (such as salicylic acid) are a larger molecule and work by removing dead skin cells. BHAs love oil (AHA’s are water loving) so it’s great for oily, acne prone skins and for unclogging pores”. This ensures that there’s no barrier of other creams or pollution for it to fight through, and also prevents dirt from being drawn in. But do give yourself a good patting down post-cleanse, as water often neutralises the effects of the chemicals in the peel.

Once applied, it’s important to adhere to whatever instructions are on the label. Some punchier peels need to be whipped off in 10 minutes and some are to be slept in. Some want a good slathering of nourishing moisturiser slapped on after (to ensure that the outer layers of the skin are perfectly protected and balanced and is not left feeling tight or uncomfortable) and some want to be left in peace thank you very much.

The best time to use a peel is at night when the skin is in regeneration mode while you sleep. Our skin is 3x more receptive at night plus it doesn’t have to protect itself from pollution, dirt and grime and can focus on recovering and renewing.

Post-Peel pointers

1. If you don’t already use an SPF in your morning routine (tut-tut), DO IT NOW. Your skin will be more photo-sensitive whilst being treated. Choose a sunscreen with at least SPF 30.
2. Redness should last only a few minutes after your peel.
3. According to skincare guru (aka The Skin Whisperer) Nataliya Robinson, “the only sensation which is OK is tingling. Other skin sensations (burning or itching – yikes) may indicate inflammation or that the skin has been damaged.” If you experience this, wash the product off your face immediately and apply a cool compress to calm the skin. Robinson suggests using products with hyaluronic acid for added moisture, and green tea or aloe vera for its soothing properties. “It’s essential not to use aggressive anti-ageing products post-treatment that can cause irritation.”
4. Avoid using retinols or having facials too soon after, both of which can irritate skin post-peel.